Selecting quality trees

Planting quality trees begins by choosing vigorous, structurally sound trees from the nursery. Strong trees have straight roots, a thick trunk with taper, and a good branch structure appropriate for the species (Fig. 1). The root collar (the uppermost roots) should be in the top 2 inches of the root ball.

Fig 1: Quality tree ready for planting

Fig 1: Quality tree ready for planting

Digging the hole

A firm, flat-bottomed hole will prevent trees from sinking. Dig the hole only deep enough to position the root collar even with the landscape soil surface (Fig. 2). Use a rototiIler or shovel to loosen soil in an area three times the size of the root ball. This loose soil promotes rapid root growth and quick establishment.

Figure 2: Loosening soil in a large area around the root ball allows for rapid root growth and quick establishment.

Figure 2: Loosening soil in a large area around the root ball
allows for rapid root growth and quick establishment.

Installing the tree

Figure 3: Remove soil and roots growing over the root collar (A) and place collar level with soil surface (B).

Remove soil and roots growing over the root collar (A) and place collar level with soil surface (B).

Remove soil and roots from the top of the root ball to expose the root collar; cut away any roots that grow over the collar (Fig. 3).

Also cut any roots that circle or mat along the sides and bottom of the root ball (Fig. 4). The root collar should be even with the landscape soil after planting (see Fig. 3). Backfill with soil removed from the hole. Minimize air pockets by packing gently and applying water. Build a berm 4 inches tall around the rootball to help force water through the root ball. Enlarge the berm as the tree establishes.

Figure 4: Cut roots at (A) to form new roots that grow away from the trunk. Do not cut roots at (B), since the root defects will regrow.

Figure 4: Cut roots at (A) to form new roots that grow away from the trunk. Do not cut roots at (B), since the root defects will regrow.

Staking

Staking holds trees erect and allows the root ball to anchor. Secure the trunk at the point where the tree stands straight. A second stake tied directly to the trunk made of bamboo may be required to straighten the upper trunk.

Mulching

A layer of organic mulch, such as leaf litter, shredded bark, or wood chips, helps protect tree roots from temperature extremes and conserves soil moisture. Mulch also helps prevent grass from competing with the tree for water and nutrients. The mulched area makes it easier to operate mowers and weed eaters without hitting the trunk and compacting soil. Apply mulch to a depth of 3 to 4 inches (slightly thinner on top of the root ball).

A layer of organic mulch protects tree roots

A layer of organic mulch protects tree roots

Irrigating

Consistent irrigation is critical for establishment. 1. Apply about 3 gallons irrigation per inch of trunk diameter to the root ball 2 or 3 times a week for the first growing season. 2. Increase volume and decrease frequency as the tree becomes established. 3. Weekly irrigation the second year and bimonthly irrigation the third year should be sufficient for establishment. 4. Once established irrigation requirements depend on species, climate and soil conditions. 5. Irrigation devices should be regularly checked for breaks and leaks.

Pruning

Training young trees promotes structurally sound growth and overall tree health. Cut back or remove codominant stems (stems that compete with the central leader) to encourage growth in the central leader (below).

Before pruning and after PruningpBefore pruning and after pruning

Before Pruning | After Pruning